A comfortable and friendly, but ultimately uninspiring restaurant in Henleaze, Ashyana shows the occasional flash of brilliance, but ends up struggling to escape mundanity.

The Venue
Half way down the Henleaze Road sits Ashyana Indian Cuisine, an unimposing restaurant with a glass facade that allows passers-by to peer inside at the pristine bar and waiting area. The interior gleams: glasses and bottles sparkle on the counters, and the silverware glints happily on the crisp white tablecloths, beneath the soft light in the slightly cramped dining room.

The Atmosphere
Unfortunately for both the staff and the customers of Ashyana Indian Cuisine, the waiting area is far too small for the frankly unreasonably high volume of seats in the restaurant. There is perhaps room for a maximum of three or four people to huddle directly inside the front door, and large groups or parties can expect to stand in the foyer or the street outside if their table is not prepared on their arrival. This adds an air of uncertainty, discomfort and chaos to the entire restaurant experience from the very start, and if sat at one of the tables towards the front of the building, do not be surprised if your space is invaded by groups of impatient and hungry customers. Once inside and seated, the atmosphere improves considerably, with the friendly waiters animatedly advising on the dishes and options available.

The Food
The poppadoms and selection of chutneys are a delicious, fun and sociable way to start your meal and this pleasing trend continues with the other entrees. The mushroom bhaji (£3.20) is well seasoned, aromatic and has a light, dry consistency that is not at all unpleasant. The shredded mushrooms are infused with all the classic flavours of the subcontinent; mainly coriander, coconut and cumin which compliment each other delightfully, and the samosa too, is well seasoned and bursting with character and a pleasant heat.

Not so impressive is the main course – a whole curried sea trout – which is unfortunately overcooked, making it unpleasantly tough and greasy. The sauce that coats the fish lacks any depth, and tastes of little but onion and cumin. Thus, the delicate and distinctive flavour and texture of the trout is entirely lost, along with the subtle infusions within the pilau rice. The dessert menu is somewhat limited and unimaginative, but the ice cream (which comes in a variety of classic flavours) is a pleasant way to complete the meal.

The Drink
The bar is well stocked with spirits and wine, but clearly the most popular drink is Cobra beer (£3.20), which can be found in Indian restaurants nationwide. The lassi £1.20(an Indian milkshake made with yoghurt, sugar and lime juice) is very good indeed, refreshing and cooling the palette with its combination of acidity and sweetness.

The Final Word
On reflection, Ashyana Indian Cuisine is a very average restaurant, which occasionally shows some real panache with its food and ideas, but lack of attention to detail and simple errors ultimately disappoint where such things matter the most.

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